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| I want to stop hooking the ball Face angle: 1 degree more open than the previous face angle for each 5-7 yards of hook to be corrected. SwingWeight: At least a 3-5 point increase if previous clubs are below C8 (based on men's traditional length). Shaft weight/total weight: If previous clubs are very light in total weight, try increasing swingweight at least 3-5 points before increasing total weight. If swingweight is already at normal to high level, increase shaft weight by at least 30 - 40g. Shaft flex: Slightly stiffer shaft but not enough to cause a loss in distance. Choose shaft with RSSR that is no more than 10mph above the golfer's swing speed. Horizontal bulge: More bulge radius (rounder face) by at least 4 inches if the golfer hits the ball off the toe of the woods regularly and the current woods have too little bulge. (See Bulge Standard Specification Ranges for each wood head at foot of page.) Lie: Lie should be fit in one of two dynamic fitting methods to be correct for the golfer. In some cases, the lie could be at least 2-3 degrees more flat than proper for the golfer in the woods to help correct a hook. However, it is not usually as effective to help a someone who hooks with a flatter lie as it is to help a slicer with a more upright lie because of the manner the club appears in the address position. A wood head that sits on the toe end of the sole (more flat than what player needs) is perceived by most players as being too awkward to swing comfortably. Grip size: Grip size should be comfortable for the golfer regardless of distance from the fingertips to the heel of the hand. Clubhead design: Weight Distribution More toe weighting in the woods although the result is not nearly as effective as heel weighting is for correcting a slice. More perimeter weighting overall. |
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